Beating with a rhythmic pulse at the heart of Istanbul is Beyoglu, bubbling and effervescent with a rich diversity of cultural and entertainment attractions for all. Stretching from Taksim Square to the Galata shores where the waters of the Golden Horn meet the Bosphorus opening majestically out into the Sea of Marmara. The area was once the European quarter of Istanbul and its original name Pera, was a Greek definition meaning the 'opposite shore'.

The Grand Rue de Pera formed the axis and central thoroughfare of this bustling area. Today as the pedestrianised Istiklal Caddesi it continues to function as a vibrant cosmopolitan highway full of human traffic. This boulevard like a stately old tree branches out into innumerable narrow side streets and alleyways, which play host to a uniquely rich social ecosystem. Here one may never tire of wandering, with an endless series of treasures to be discovered amid the antique houses and back streets. Every nook and cranny of Beyoglu provides some new cultural surprise; shops, cinemas, theatres, art-houses, culture centers, galleries, churches, mosques, synagogues, hotels, restaurants, patisseries, cafes, tea-houses and bars.

Beyoglu is like multi-media and multi-cultural centre which has been living and growing for centuries; In addition to being a center for social activity the area also retains a local population and the friendly atmosphere of a neighborhood. Beyoglu is composed of many beautiful buildings in baroque and neo-classical styles, dating from the latter days of the Ottoman Empire. Sadly many are in a state of disrepair and decay, while others have been recklessly torn down. Lending and air of ramshackleness to these elegant structures many have been crowned with illegal extensions as landlords stretch a little higher to get a glimpse of the Bosphorus waters, a little more sunlight, or simply to add another rentable flat to their premises.

Fortunately, those historic houses that remain standing are benefiting from a greater sense of appreciation. Restoration work is increasingly being carried out to preserve these museum pieces. Some of the finest buildings have been kept in perfect condition benefiting from their roles, as are the Consulate Generals of various states. These buildings were originally built to serve as Embassies to the Ottoman Empire, and their grandeur, grace, and elegance often ranks that of their present day replacements in Ankara. Adding to the cosmopolitan air of Beyoglu are the schools of several foreign countries which specialize in educating young Turks in their countries native languages. It is not uncommon to come across young students strolling along while babbling in French, Italian, German and so forth.

Beyoglu has always played the leading role in bringing European culture to the Ottoman Empire, following on to the present day with the westernizing of the Turkish Republic. Yet the east adds something of its own to this vortex of culture and art. Its waffi1 hospitality and infinite loving curiosity for all that is colourful and entertaining.

STEPPING OUT IN BEYOGLU

Your most likely point of arrival in Beyoglu will be Taksim Square, the wild and frenetic open-air central station of Istanbul. Around a central plateau of grass and concrete circle an endless snaking line of cars, taxi's and buses. Soon to be added to this milieu is the flow of human passengers from the metro (the opening of which has faced repeated postponement, though a section of the line was opened in 1999 by the mayor of Istanbul shortly before local elections and closed again as swiftly as the ballot boxes).

Around Taksim Square To the north of the square lies the National Theater, or Ataturk Cultural Centre (A.K.M. ), a rather ugly squat building with a cattle-grid facade, it presents an interesting selection of home repertoire, and occasionally hosts some renowned international companies, especially during the annual Theater Festival. With your back to the A.K.M. to your left rises the rather imposing Maffi1ara Hotel, and on your left the busy bus depot. Before you lies Istiklal the street which will take you into Beyoglu.

The tramway, which runs along a single line along the length of Istiklal to it's end at "Tunel", guides one along the street and the tracks a clear land marker for newcomers on outings into the area. At Taksim the tramway circles around the Monument to the Republic which stands as a symbol of Ataturk's accomplishments and the founding of the Republic. To the left of the Monument to the Republic and the Siraselviler branches off away from the square. The street has several exciting late night venues, most notably the long established and perennially popular rock bar, Kemanci, on three floor .

Moving into Istiklal
As you move into Istiklal you pass, on the left the row of eternally opened kebap shops, selling fast food Turkish style, behind which rises the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Aya Triada, which can be entered from Meselik Sokak. Opposite the the fast food joints on the right is the more dignified cut stone structure of the Tourism Information Office, which was once the water distribution center, or "Taksim" giving the area it's name. Next to this is the French Consulate and Culture Center. Beyond this is the rather unfortunate looming metallic prism structure of the Aksanat Cultural Center, which offers a wide selection of arts events. To the left hand is Meselik Sokak, where one can enjoy traditional Turkish Cuisine on the terraces of the Haci Baba Restaurant looking out upon the green garden of Aya Traida. Opposite the entrance to the Cathedral, one can find a the cool and funky bar-restaurant called Dulcinea, which houses a cutting edge modern-art Gallery downstairs.

In the area of Little and Big Finger Streets The next two streets along are Little and Big Finger Door Streets, or Kucuk and Buyuk Parmakkapi Sokaklar, respectively. No matter where you turn, up or down crooked stairways or through ornamented doorways, you are sure to come across a bustling and exciting bar, cafe or restaurant. Across Istiklal, Bekar Sokak; Bachelor Street, Mis Sokak; Musk Street and Ibnan Adnan Street, provide an equally rich selection.

Around Aga Camii Strolling further along one finds the mosque of Aga Camii on the left. It is dwarfed by the surrounding buildings and behind it rises a stunning neo-classical building, Cite de Rumeli, one of its twin towers hovering majestically over Istiklal. On passing the mosque the ornate fa9ade of the grand Circle d'Orient building which flanks the street with graceful poise, above the colourful shop arcades. To the left Alkazar movie theater is one of the quainter cinemas of the street in which to enjoy the latest selection of mainstream and arthouse films, its interior and exterior having undergone extensive renovation.

The Cicek Pasaji and Balik Pazari
Before you reach the halfway point of Istiklal you are compelled to turn left into a stunningly restored building whose original title, "Cite de Pera", still stands over it's the high arching entrance. Though it is more commonly known as the Circe or Flower Pasaj, after stalls which once inhabited the interior where women sold flowers. Now the astounding passageway with balconies and ceiling soaring high above are filled with restaurants and bars. Wandering musicians come and go as those seated among the expanse of tables sample delicious traditional dishes, washed down with golden Efes Pilsner, or the strong aniseed spirit raki.The Cicek Pasaji connects with the Balik Pazan; Fish Bazaar, which still retains a number of fresh fish outlets, also boasts beautifully laid out fruit and vegetable stalls, and delightful, spice, meat and poultry shops aswell as a number of delicatessans. To the rear of the Bazaar Nevizade Street host of series of lively restaurants, where people gather to sit, eat, drink and talk, in the warmer months the activity is all outdoors in the open street.

Galatasaray Square
Midway along Istiklal one reaches the renowned Galatasaray Lycee, the Eton of Turkey, which was founded in the 15th century .Here in front of the tall ornate school gates the street widens into Galatasaray Square, and the tram tracks part so that the trams may pass one another. The Mado Ice-Cream Parlour on the square offers a dazzling selection of homemade ice cream and dropping in to appreciate the delicious flavors on offer is the perfect means to cool off if the weather is a little sticky or hot.

Beyond Galatasaray
Galatasaray has traditionally marked the point at which one entered the quieter half of Beyoglu. In recent years however, a growing number of new and varied establishments have begun to draw greater crowds south of the border, so to speak. Passing the great gray hulk of concrete on either side one begins to see more spectacular and glorious examples of classical 19th century architecture. On the left is the Misir or Egyptian Apartments, behind and beneath which is the techno dance venue, Magma. Across the road the amazingly beautiful Cite de Elhamra houses an adult cinema and shop in the most glorious surroundings you are ever likely to find them. Up the winding flights of marble stairs you'll find a a rather dull gallery amid a network of rooms, worth checking out for the balcony the opens out onto Istiklal and provides a magical view of Saint Antoines a giant baroque Cathedral belonging to group of Italian Franciscans.

Oda Kule and onward
Oda Kule, which means the tower of rooms, is the brown tinted glass building which shoots upward on the right, is a rather gargantuan chink in the chain of beautiful buildings. Beneath it a passageway leads to the huge subterranean Tuyap Trade Fair Centre, and an adjacent multi-story car-park, above what meets the eye is a wide concrete square that gives a spectacular view of the Golden Horn. On the opposite side of the road as we move comes the immaculate Dutch Consulate, followed shortly by the old Spanish Chapel of Our Lady of Seven Sorrows???? Between these a step street leads to the Italian Consulate, the former residence of the Venetian Ambassador, where the arch-charmer Casanova stayed as a guest for three months.

On the main thoroughfare, we pass the Franciscan St. Maria Draperis Church. Toward the end of Istiklal As we come towards the end of Istiklal, Cafe Markiz, once frequented by the great artists, the rich and famous, is on the right, lies forlorn and closed. It is renowned for its richly coloured and decorative tiles that ornament the wall stills, which may still catch a glimpse of by peering through the net curtains. Across the road the Consulate of the Russian Federation, is more easily seen standing out in striking red. Next door to it is the luxurios Richmond Hotel, which is home to the very pleasant Cafe Les Bons at street level. Straying down the steep street of Kumbaraci Yokusu one comes across the ornate and beautifully restored Anglican Crimean Memorial Church. Up on Istiklal again you see the Swedish Consulate with an extensive grassy garden. Opposite this is the rather neglected old Russian Embassy, a sturdy gray peeling building. It's absolute simplicity seems out of place and yet processing a fluid grace it is something of a balm among the ornate and detailed facades and architecture all around it.

In Tunel Square
A little further on one comes to the end of the street with at Tunel. Here a calm in the calm square, surrounded by music instrument and book shops, the trams end their journey and turn back toward Taksim. Below the open end of the square is a rather beautiful, if pink, building belonging the Beyoglu Municipality , and presently alongside are the extensive works to facilitate another of the Metro's future stations. Behind the tram-stop rises the Metro Han a majestic 19th century building housing one of the oldest underground systems in the world. The line runs at a sharp incline down to Karakoy, where one exits near the Galata Bridge and from where it is a short walk over the Golden Horn to Eminonu. Opposite the Metro Han the Cite de Tunel building has a gorgeous central passageway with a delightful antique cafe open till twelve midnight with candlelit tables in the street throughout the Summer .

Exploring Asmalimescit Passing on through the Cite de Tunel building one enters the unique Neighborhood of Asmalimescit, where a diverse range of characters are waiting to welcome you. Local artists and writers can be found relaxing among the quaint collection of galleries, restaurants, cafes and bars. One Istanbul latest and hottest new venues, Babylon, can be found here. Babylon hosts musical artists from throughout Turkey and around the world presenting a rich array of ethnic music. Here also is the Pera Palace Hotel to which Agatha Christie disappeared to write in Murder on the Orient Express.

Among the other famous guests are Ataturk, Greta Garbo, Orson Welles, to name a few. The Galata District Returning to Galata Square we take the side street walk down through Galip Dede Street, we come to the Galata Mevlevi Tekkesi (monastery) one of the oldest in Istanbul, built by Iskender Pasha in 1492 and now converted into the museum of Ottoman Court arts and Literature The museum is found just at the starting point of the road. On Sundays at 5.00 p.m. the local dervishes give a public performance. On weekdays, the road is full of new "dervishes," the enthusiasts of music who Both of these squares have gates leading to the famous Cite de Pera (Cicek Pasaji in Turkish), a wonderful passageway or mezzanine filled with restaurants and drinking spots. Here people gather around barrel-top tables to drink and eat while being serenaded by various wandering street musicians. Here one listens to all kinds of music while sampling all kinds of'meze' (those unique dishes prepared to accompany alcoholic beverages, especially Turkish Raki.

One walks out of the passage into the Fish Bazaar, a street bazaar selling the city's freshest fish and a host of fruits, vegetables, and spices. There are many delightful sights and sounds to be experienced in this open market. The Bazaar is also home to yet another street filled with restaurants and drinking spots, a street that is an alternative to the passage itself.. Nevizade Street has scores of tables set on the street and accommodates the drinkers with many different kinds of mezes. When you walk from Galatasaray to the Tunel Square, European-type buildings . and and restored 19th century monumental buildings begin to appear, one after the other: The Misir Apartmani and ornamented Cite de Elhamra are two buildings which attract attention just at their entrances. The Cite of Hocapolu, which . connects Istiklal street to the back street of Mesrutiyet, takes the visitors to older times with its inner court. The next are the Franciscan Church of St. Anthony, the Maison de la France on Nuru Ziya sokak, and the St. Louis Chapel, the oldest in Pera (1581). Next to this church are located. the Dutch Consulate, the Union Church of Istanbul, and the Old Spanish Chapel, dedicated to 'Our Lady of Seven Sorrows,' The Pallozzo Venezia, which used to be the Venetian Balio's (ambassador) residence, is now the Italian Consulate. Famous Casanova stayed there as a guest for three months.

The Asmalimescit and Tunel District:

On the main thoroughfare, we pass the Franciscan St. Maria Draperis Church, the still scarlet Russian Federation Consulate, and on a back street, Kumbaraci Sokak, the Crimean Memorial Church, one of the handsomest churches in the town. The Swedish Consulate where King Charles XII spent years of exile after he was defeated by Peter the Great in 1709 is also here. Asmalimescit, another colorful district extends from Istiklal to Mesrutiyet Street, embracing bars, restaurants, art galleries, small cafes, all frequented by local artists and writers. Still the legends of Belle Epoque of Istanbul live on. For example, although The Markiz Patisserie has been closed for decades, one can still see through the windows the splendid ceramics decorating its walls. The Asmalimescit road will take you to the Mesrutiyet Street where the American Consulate and the famous Pera Palace Hotel in which famous people such as Ataturk and Agatha Christie stayed.

The Tunel Square is the one which links Beyoglu with Karakoy across Galata. From here one can reach the Golden Horn via the Galata Bridge, either by taking the 19th century underground or by walking down the slope. The underground exit is in a monumental 19th century building: the Metro Han. The Cite de Tunel passageway just opposite the metro will ease your connection through its "a la Taksim Square:

Main Artery: Istiklal Street or Grand Rue de Pera Beyoglu starts with Taksim Square, the central square of Istanbul. The Monument to the Republic stands as a symbol of this square and is located just at the entrance of Istiklal Street which stretches from Taksim down to the "Tunel" --the second- oldest metro in Europe, Galata Tower and further down to the port ofKarakoy: Here the Galata Bridge leads over the Golden Horn to the Old City . Parmakkapi District:

Istiklal street which was closed to vehicle traffic in the early 90's, starts with the old water distribution ("Taksim") building, now serving as a Tourism Information Office. At the first right corner stands the light-blue, one story,French Consulate and Culture Center. On the far side is the Greek Orthodox Aya Triade Church. The entrance to the church is from Meselik Sokak. On the second corner stands the very post-modern and controversial Aksanat Cultural Center, a classical building sheathed in an aluminum coat to give it a modern aspect. Dining and Wining in Parmakkapi Now begins the cluster of restaurants, cafes, and bars, most of which face the narrow side streets running in and along Istiklal. Dulcinea, the sweetheart of Don Quixote, has given her name to a spacious bar-restaurant frequented by the better- heeled set. It is located on Meselik Sokak. The Haci Baba Restaurant is on the corner, with its terrace looking out onto the green garden of Aya Traide. This is a very famous restaurant, serving a full range of Turkish dishes, and even some dishes from the French kitchen. It is a popular spot for both Turkish and foreign residents.

Parmakkapi gets even livelier as we enter Buyuk Parmakkapi Sokak and its adjoining Hasnun Galip Sokak. It seems that every building has already been turned into a bar , into a cafe or a restaurant. Agacami District:

Taking its name from the mosque of Agacami, this district is unique in Turkey, because of Yesil Cami once the cinecitta of Turkey. In tl1iszone; is the Cite de Rumeli, a neoclassical building with twin towers, is located next to the mosque . This district is also home to the Circle d'Orient, the largest building in Beyoglu . Alkazar movie theater is a small but legendary building. Some of the building's interior was renewed in the last two decades, keeping the facade preserved. The same is true of the Anadolu Han and the Cite d'Alep. On the street next to the mosque, the Sakiz Agaci Sokak, there is the Surp Asdvadzadvin, an Armenian Roman Catholic Church. Galatasaray District:

The famous Galatasaray Lycee,
which dates back to 15th century, defines the Galatasaray zone. The large square in front of the school, Galatasaray Square, is just fifty meters from the square facing the British Consulate.

Francaise" passages to Asmalimescit. Remember to take a look at the Beyoglu Municipality's building, which is hidden below at road level, facing towards the Tepebasi Square. The Galata District:

As we walk down through Galip Dede Street, we come to the Galata Mevlevi Tekkesi (monastery) one of the oldest in Istanbul, built by Iskender Pasha in 1492 and now converted into the museum of Ottoman Court arts and Literature The museum is found just at the starting point of the road. On Sundays at 5.00 p.m. the local dervishes give a public performance. On weekdays, the road is full of new "dervishes," the enthusiasts of music who prowl the music shops scattered on both side of the road. With a few minutes' walk, en passant Teutonia, we get to the Galata Tower.

The Galata Tower,
built as an apex of the Genoese district fortifications, takes us, back to the Medieval Beyoglu, as well as to its present. The Galata Tower, which is now a tourist sight and a night club-restaurant, once belonged to the Genoese. The district itself was founded in the 5th century A.D.. Narrow streets, characteristic of Medieval times, lead us down to the Galata Bridge through Dominican Churches and the Geneose houses, one of which is the Podestat.